When they say “indulgent” at Eddie V’s, they ain’t half kidding. And really, what could be more indulgent than the butter poached lobster with white cheddar mashed potato? Or the truffled mac and cheese? And the crab-stuffed jumbo Gulf shrimp, served as an add-on “Steak Indulgence” with the entrees. Ditto the bacon-wrapped filets done Oscar style with king crab and grilled asparagus with that bearnaise. On the other hand, the 8-ounce filet mignon with a broiled lobster tail is a memory from my faded youth. Dishes that wouldn’t be familiar to my folks, but sure are to me. Along with the kung pao calamari, there are Maine lobster tacos, yellowtail sashimi, a burrata & heirloom tomato salad, and a warm goat cheese salad. The iceberg wedge BLT salad has a buttermilk-chive dressing. Thus, the “classic” Caesar salad is just that - though with tapenade added for a bit of a twist. And live jazz in the V lounge…Each location is unique in its setting, artwork and décor, they all share an unmistakable elegance…” And food that’s largely retro - a taste of how things used to be - modernized here and there, or not here and there. We’re told that Eddie V’s has a “charismatic vibe draws you in and holds you close, invites you to be seen, or sit back and just savor. The verbiage at Eddie V’s is worth a moment, for it can be even more excessive than the drawn butter, remoulade and bearnaise. But it isn’t all about the cattle.Īnd the setting - Lord knows, the setting is a jaw-dropper! Darden poured some serious green into what had been a McCormick & Schmick’s - yup the place went from seafood and steak to…seafood and steak! The furniture, the lighting, the design elements like architectural glassware - when you spend $102 for a pair of South African lobster tails at Eddie V’s (with drawn butter), you’re paying for the critters, and for the plate which the critters rest on. The thing about Eddie’s is you can split the difference between filet mignon and salmon. Which is to say, a wine room heavy with serious reds, which go so much better with beef than with branzino. And even though Eddie V’s highlights its “Prime Seafood,” it still has lots of meat on the menu - and with a decided steakhouse vibe. Here in the South Bay, we’ve had the opening of Pacific Standard Prime steakhouse in Redondo Beach, and Polanco Modern Mexican Steakhouse in the Ayres Hotel in Hawthorne. ($275 without the gold, which makes it just an outlandishly expensive hunk of cow.) In Beverly Hills, the outlandishly performative Salt Bae opened a branch of his Nusret Steakhouse - instantaneous Instagram bait thanks to its $1,000 gold foil wrapped tomahawk steak. If you’ve been following the curve of new restaurants opening post-pandemic, you may have noticed that a striking number of them are built around steak. Which is to say, Big Food for Big Spenders. And though I’ve never been to Darden holdings like Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen, I’ve got the sense that Eddie V’s is Darden’s attempt to move into the upscale seafood and steak sector of the market. In 2011, it was acquired by Darden Restaurants, a dining industry behemoth with holdings that include Olive Garden, Red Lobster and The Yard House. Lauderdale, Florida, to La Jolla, California. The Eddie V’s concept was born in Austin, Texas, two decades ago, and has since grown to more than two dozen branches, stretching from Ft.
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